Formatted Contents Note: Eat, write, travel, cook -- My mother's kitchen counter -- Air-dried meat in the glove compartment -- Montreal bagels -- Heartache and hard-boiled eggs -- Finding my footing and the best back bacon -- Coffee, baguettes, and borscht -- Working the line -- Alone with rotting meat, the Vogue years -- Champagne on arrival -- A walk through the Food & wine classic tasting tents -- At the judges' table -- Confessions of a food judge -- Wedding pickles -- Sugared up on just desserts -- Petits fours.